A weekend of sailing between winds and wonders

Between dreamy islands, playful currents and charming ports of call, embark on a sailing weekend in the heart of one of the world’s most beautiful gulfs.

Where the Atlantic meets the land, the Gulf of Morbihan unfurls its labyrinth of islands and currents. To sail here is to learn to read the sea as well as the stones, to maneuver under the dictation of the tides, to listen to an ancient world whispering beneath the hull. For those who take out the bearing compass and grab the binoculars, every mile becomes a maritime challenge, an adventure, especially if they choose to turn off the carto!

Welcome to one of the most beautiful sailing playgrounds in the world. To offer sailors the fabulous playground that is the Gulf of Morbihan, over 10,000 years ago Southern Brittany had to agree to let some of its land disappear underwater. This metamorphosis gave birth to a labyrinth of islands that amaze sailors and dreamers alike. This inland sea, some fifteen kilometers long and five to nine wide, has only one opening to the open sea – barely a kilometer wide between vibrant Port-Navalo and discreet Locmariaquer. At each tide, these two villages witness the natural merry-go-round animated by the spectacular masses of water that enter or escape the Gulf. Here, the Atlantic Ocean rushes into the “little sea” – mor bihan in Breton – with impressive power. The ebb and flow propel some of the fastest currents in Europe, reaching up to nine knots at the highest coefficients.

The most demanding and the most beautiful of sailing schools

Taking the helm in the Gulf means learning or revising all the fundamentals of seamanship: reading charts, using alignments, positioning by one, two or three landmarks, understanding buoyage, calculating headings taking real currents into account! For a successful voyage, it’s also vital to know how to outwit the mischievous effects of the wind and the sea: currents and counter-currents for those who lick the coast with their bow, rotations-disappearances-accelerations of the wind near the islands. But rest assured: this sailing basin is much more than a testing ground for sadistic sailing instructors looking for guinea pigs! The Gulf is remarkably well signposted, and any apprentice sailor with even the slightest preparation can navigate without fear. It offers plenty of shelter and a sea that’s infinitely gentler than that of its big brother, the ocean. With its countless anchorages, islands both inhabited and uninhabited, small ports, fishing and oyster-farming villages, old castles and mysterious rocks, the Gulf is a feast for the eyes.

You’ll be just as enchanted by every land-based escapade: granite longères, hollyhocks and agapanthus, Romanesque chapels, mossy low walls, old castles and thatched cottages, Brittany’s famous blue shutters… it’s all here. And you won’t forget the region’s gastronomy, with its iodized flavours and its taste of the terroir! As you’ll have gathered, setting sail in the Gulf of Morbihan means embarking on a much wider voyage than a simple cruise: gliding over waters laden with memories, in the heart of nature’s fairy-tale atmosphere, your eyes on the lookout, your brain on the alert, all your senses on the alert and your sheets active. You won’t know which way to turn… but you’ll love it!

Let’s put a stop to those who’ll tell you the age-old weather joke: Brittany doesn’t care, and neither do you. So remind them of the local saying: “If you listen too much to the weather, you’ll stay in the bistro” and leave them to it. And don’t listen to those who, having ventured out unprepared, will tell you all about their memorable grounding in the Gulf mud. Don’t doubt it: you, your foulies and your boat are ready for adventure! Cast off with us and immerse yourself in this anticipated account of a sailing weekend in the Gulf of Morbihan. It’s a promise of practical advice and an itinerary designed to ensure your crew has the time of their lives. Set sail on the morning of Saturday, July 5, 2025, on Saint Zoe’s day, with a waxing gibbous moon and neap tide (coefficient 38)!

From one myth to another: reaching the Gulf from La Trinité

Just as Cinderella needs a coach for the ball, you’ll need a beautiful boat to navigate the waters of Morbihan. Renting a sailboat from the port of Crouësty or La Trinité-sur-Mer is an ideal option. Our preference is for La Trinité-sur-Mer, for its authentic, ocean-racing atmosphere. A departure from this mythical port will also give you a glimpse of that other wonderful playground, the Bay of Quiberon, before you reach the Gulf. The hand-held sounder has been checked, the deviation curve is ready, the atlas of currents wide open on the saloon table, the water heights at various points in the Gulf calculated for the weekend? The weather, of course, the weather, Captain! Without going to such extremes of preparation, a good familiarity with the topography of the Gulf on the chart is a definite asset for your safety and peace of mind. Make sure you know where you’re going, and if in doubt, stop the boat in front of the current to breathe! On this Saturday morning, it’s BM at 7:39 a.m. at La Trinit’, a good time to start the engine – neither too early nor too late! A little less than ten miles to get into the swing of things, taking advantage of the beautiful morning light on the Brittany coast. At around 10 a.m., you’ll be in the channel, with the beautiful red turret of Kerpenhir and its Holy Virgin on your port side, in the thick of things, almost at the height of the day’s current. You’ll almost certainly be escorted by a merry armada of small and large sailboats. Often, too, a local fisherman in his rowboat will be going against the tide on an ebb he knows like the back of his hand, while an optimistic late riser will find himself treading water on his way to the ocean. If you’ve turned on your instruments, enjoy your speed over the bottom, but keep your eyes peeled! It won’t be long before you spot the Grand Mouton, the first green in the channel, recognizable above all by the foam that the currents cause to shoot up at its foot. This is it: the Gulf opens up before you. Mountains, pines, jagged relief, water as far as the eye can see… a landscape that suddenly blossoms in all its splendour.

Lunch, between lobster and shrouds

Once past the Grand Mouton, change course to 060 to skirt the long island, Gavrinis, and finally reach, in just over a mile, the gully between Berder and Mare islands. If you want to pass to the south of Île-aux-Moines, you’ll have to watch out for the Kerbouzec shoal and stay in deep water. At the same time as one crew member is looking at the depth sounder, send another, equipped with binoculars and bearing compass, to help you keep the Berder tower at 325 astern. So many emotions already! But above all, no bird names on board! Morbihan is the reign of polished, subtle and elegant sailing! Let’s get him or her off to the galley, it’s almost time for a break! Don’t worry, the currents may carry you for a few more hours to the bottom of the Gulf, where the tide will be 1 h 30 out of sync with Port-Navalo. Sail to the southern tip of Kerners cove for a quiet lunch. Unhook the lobster, bring out the Plougastel strawberry tart and enjoy, from every point of view, the laughter on board and the scenery you can now contemplate.

Island strolls and enchanted ports of call

To avoid postprandial lethargy, throw yourself into the water for a little boost before setting sail again. Head for the bottom of the Gulf, making the most of the last moments of the current, for a distance of 5 to 6 NM, and a 16 h ETA would be nice. A fine passage for your digestion, unhindered, admiring the east and west coasts of Île-aux-Moines and Île-d’Arz. Pass the red L’œuf, then aim for the Pointe de Liouse, south of l’Île-d’Arz, to avoid the shallow waters in the middle of the area. Once you have the green Brouel abeam, you can head for this narrow passage between the Gulf’s two largest islands. A lovely little anchorage awaits you north of the Logoden Islands for the night: sounding at 2.4 / 3.2 m, plus the day’s tidal range, to be multiplied by the Captain’s coefficient! Alternatively, push a little further into the Rivière de Vannes for a mooring at the peaceful Port-Anna, wedged between two wooded banks, home to some pretty local boats, including three typical sinagos, the two-masted longboats of the Séné fishermen of yesteryear, recognizable by their red sails and black hulls.

What’s tomorrow’s program, your impatient crew members will ask you at dinner? Departure at 9 a.m. for a 1.30 h outward current to Port-Blanc, the main port of Île-aux-Moines, where it faces Baden in a narrow passage 150 m wide. You’ll spend a delightful day ashore, cruising its cobbled lanes and paths. Some will circle this butterfly of land, while others will choose to stroll leisurely through the village lanes. All are likely to end up on the small beach with its colorful cabins, not far from the port.

At 5 p.m., two hours after the full tide at Port-Blanc, you’ll probably have to put in a bit of headway to allow your crew to cast off the mooring line, stretched taut by the current. Sail quietly down the west coast, guided by the Creizig north and south cardinal poles, which you can aim for in succession, leaving them on your port side to avoid the Kergonan and Creizig banks. If the weather invites you to sail this way, remember the old Breton adage: “When the seagulls have their feet, it’s time to tack”! Soon, the Berder and Mare reliefs reappear. You’ll be in heaven in this dizzying maze of land and sea, your hull sometimes all askew on its course, like a shopping cart with a veiled wheel. Tonight, you’ll be sleeping by the buoy in Locmariaquer. Organize a visit ashore at dusk: the village, the Kerpenhir headland that you passed just yesterday, the great Atlantic beaches, a dinner by the water to gaze endlessly at this magical place. Monday July 7, 8 a.m.: it’s time to attempt to reach the Atlantic Ocean (BM at Port-Navalo at 9:33 a.m.). Don’t trust anyone but yourself when it comes to waking up, as it’s quite possible that some of you will use your wits to win a free 6-hour ride around here!

Of course you’ll be back, but don’t be so overwhelmed! Those who set sail here always give up a little of themselves. Why not let the gentle beauty of Houat and Hoëdic soothe your sorrows, for what’s true in love is also true at sea: one lost, ten found!

Practical info

How do I get there?

A flight from Nantes to Geneva, followed by a rental car, will quickly transport you to La Trinité-sur-Mer. This charming little town, with its larger-than-life port, will quickly put you in the maritime mood, between Ultims and old rigs. Alternative Sailing will be happy to provide you with a floating home for the weekend. Once you’ve got your sailboat under control, stock up at the Carrefour supermarket and the local grocery store. In the evening, enjoy the friendly atmosphere of the quayside with our favorite restaurants:
Le Quai, with its warm, classic ambience.
The trendier Carré 56 revisits iodized market dishes with creativity. More chic, L’Arrosoir seduces with its view of the harbor, its elegant maritime decor and its beautiful stone building typical of Brittany.
Whatever your choice, remember to make a reservation.

If your nautical preparations of the previous day have taken up too much of your time, you can still do your shopping at dawn: the fish market and the Saturday morning market will provide you with everything you need for your gourmet meals on board.

For your first stop ashore on Île-aux-Moines, walk from the village along the flower-filled lanes and paths on the south side of the island. There’s a small supermarket on the square, where you can organize a picnic if necessary. Otherwise, a few random strolls will always bring you back to your starting point, offering a pleasant glimpse of the island’s architectural and natural beauties. There are a number of pleasant bars and restaurants in the village square, perfect for lunch. You can also opt for a more unusual experience on a former oyster-farming barge converted into a restaurant, along the quay below the village. Impossible to miss as you disembark!

During your second stopover, in Locmariaquer, a quiet little port where it’s good to stroll, take a break at the crêperie Le Vahiné, a colorful, spicy and welcoming address where the galettes are tasty and the crêpes deliciously buttered. L’Escale’s terrace is also ideal for an aperitif, with a breathtaking view over the entrance to the Gulf and the start of the Auray River. Before setting off again, don’t miss a visit to the bakery near the church: fruit tarts, far breton and kouign-amann are well worth the detour.