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Cruise in the Three-Lakes region

by Barbara Esther Siegrist

Blue days at sea

Sailing in the heart of the Three-Lakes region means a cruise that ticks all the boxes of nautical bliss. Between Saint-Blaise and Grandson, the bise, Joran and westerly winds can blow at more than 20 knots and raise a respectable swell. On calm days, you can lie back on one of the sandy beaches on the south shore. And if it rains, Neuchâtel, Grandson or Estavayer-le-Lac offer plenty of fun activities.

LAKE NEUCHÂTEL (LOOKING NORTHEAST) IS LARGE ENOUGH FOR A THREE-WEEK CRUISE. ©UFT-FTV2024

One year follows the next, at least for the owners of a pleasant boat and fine cuisine. A small path leads along the reeds to the campsite, where there’s another restaurant. The guest berths, with views of cormorants drying their wings, enjoy an idyllic setting, but suffer somewhat from the hustle and bustle of the petrol pump. If you’re not afraid of the hustle and bustle (and you’re not necessarily looking for peace and quiet), head for Estavayer-le-Lac. The pretty medieval town will be hosting its brocante from August 8 to 10, 2025. And on August 9, everyone’s invited to the Port Festival. In Estavayer, Chevroux, Delley-Portalban or Cudrefin, evenings on the south shore have that little taste of eternity, when the sun goes down behind the Jura mountains. In the cockpit, with friends and a drink in hand, opinions are unanimous: God has created a little corner of paradise here. Stationed on Lake Biel. At the start of summer, they’re invariably asked: “Are you going on a cruise?” It’s a tradition that’s been going strong since the days of our great-grandparents, and it’s as popular as ever. Those who can, cast off outside the school vacations, but even in July there’s still room, especially on our big brother Lake Biel. The adventure begins in Le Landeron, with the masting of the sailboat. Three bridges prevent the boat from crossing the Thielle canal with its mast up. Many sailboats, such as the H-Boat, are equipped with mast-masting systems that enable them to be launched quickly. The others pass through the crane at the port of Le Landeron. This small Neuchâtel harbor offers mooring places, a good restaurant in the harbor and a mini-market in the nearby campsite. The crossing to Lake Neuchâtel takes just over an hour. Swans, herons and the occasional kingfisher accompany the navigation. Once over the last railway bridge, the landscape opens up. Within a short distance, a feeling of freedom settles over you, and you’re caught up in the immensity. When the weather’s fine – and the breeze’s right – you’ll immediately turn starboard towards La Tène to anchor on a sandy beach. Caribbean ambience guaranteed! The crew adjusts the mast, then it’s time to dive in. Those who need a crane head for Saint-Blaise or Auvernier. Once the vacation mood has settled, we leave the lively, French-speaking north shore for the more touristy south shore, lined with sandy beaches. Along the way, the Pointe du Grain offers an ideal anchorage. The bay between Cortaillod and Bevaix, however, offers protection only in breezy conditions. With seven harbours to the south and ten to the north, there’s no shortage of places to spend the night. The best guide is the wind. With a westerly wind, it can be very rough to the northeast, near Saint-Blaise. While the yachtsmen moor their boats, the windsurfers and kitesurfers have a field day. In the evening, the Joran sometimes gusts down from the slopes of the Jura. It’s best to keep an eye on the weather and clouds. It can appear without warning from the gorges de l’Areuse, west of Auvernier. In calm weather, you can let yourself be carried to a beach by making short tacks – at Gletterens, for example, which has nothing to envy the Riviera. We tie up to the pontoon for the day. In the evening, it’s not uncommon to see the dreaded Joran rising from the Jura and turning into gusts of wind worthy of a real blow. It’s high time to take shelter at the far end of the harbor, or take refuge in a neighboring port, depending on whether or not you fancy a final tack at dusk.

If there’s a breeze, you can hoist the spinnaker and sail on to Grandson, just west of the lake. The château, currently under renovation, can be spotted from a distance. Better check online for visiting times. Otherwise, enjoy fresh fish and local wine at the Cercle de la Voile restaurant. In this part of the lake, you can choose between Concise, on the north shore, or Yvonand and Cheyres to the south. Concise is a charming village in the French-speaking part of Switzerland, while Yvonand boasts one of the longest sandy beaches and a large campsite right next to the port. Watch out for sandbanks as you approach! This precaution applies to the entire south shore. Even an H-Boat with a draught of 1.30 m can run aground off Estavayer. Built in 2006, the Cheyres harbour attracts many visitors. The facilities are modern, the restaurant La Sarcelle well located, the atmosphere pleasant and the cuisine well prepared. A short path leads along the reeds to the campsite, where there’s another restaurant. The visitor pitches, with views of cormorants drying their wings, enjoy an idyllic location, but suffer somewhat from the hustle and bustle of the petrol pump. If you’re not afraid of the hustle and bustle (and not necessarily looking for peace and quiet), head for Estavayer-le-Lac. The pretty medieval town will be hosting its brocante from August 8 to 10, 2025. And on August 9, everyone’s invited to the Port Festival. In Estavayer, Chevroux, Delley-Portalban or Cudrefin, evenings on the south shore have that little taste of eternity, when the sun goes down behind the Jura mountains. In the cockpit, with friends and a drink in hand, opinions are unanimous: God has created a little corner of paradise here.

Practical info

Port guide :

  • BOATDRIVER-Guide 1 – Lake Biel, Lake Neuchâtel, Lake Murten, Aare to Solothurn (binder), CHF 119
  • Guide des trois lacs Neuchâtel, Bienne et Morat (Bosco), 28 francs

Lake Neuchâtel harbours :

  • North shore from east to west: Saint-Blaise, Hauterive, Neuchâtel Nid du Crô, Neuchâtel Jeunes-Rives, Auvernier, Cortaillod, Bevaix, Saint-Aubin, Concise, Grandson
  • South shore from east to west: Cudrefin, Delley-Portalban, Gletterens, Chevroux, Estavayer-le-Lac, Cheyres, Yvonand

Moorings on Lake Neuchâtel in case of breezes:

  • La Tène
  • La Pointe du Grain

Lake Biel harbours :

  • North bank before entering the Thielle canal: Erlach (Cerlier) and Le Landeron
  • South shore: Saint-Pierre island

Reservation for visitors’ seats:

  • boatpark.app

Boat rental :

  • sailbox.ch
  • sailcom.ch

Gasoline pumps Lake Neuchâtel :

  • Delley-Portalban
  • Cheyres
  • Concise
  • Nid du Crô (Neuchâtel)

Lake Biel petrol pump :

  • Engelberg

Things to see and do :

  • Estavayer-le-Lac: Fête du Port on August 9, brocante from August 8 to 10
  • For a panoramic view of the region: Bar Rooftop Waves at the Hotel Beaulac in Neuchâtel
  • Château de Grandson: (chateau-grandson.ch)
  • Fédération Suisse Motonautique(fsm-schweiz.ch/en/nautique/eaux-suisses/lac-de-bienne/, also contains useful information for sailing)
  • Tourism Jura Trois-Lacs(j3l.ch/en/)

Quagga mussel:
If you’re taking your boat with you, find out about launching requirements in connection with the Quagga mussel. Within the Three-Lakes region itself, there are no restrictions.(die3seen.ch/stop-quagga)

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