The Chinese metropolis is greening its districts along the lines of Singapore and protecting the last remaining natural areas on the outskirts of the city.
Photos ) Bernard Pichon & Brice Lechevalier
As soon as you leave the glittering Hong Kong airport designed by Norman Forster, you long for the nearest air-conditioned space – and find it on the bus, in a cab or on the practical “Express Line” subway, which only takes 40 minutes to get to the city center.At first glance, Hong Kong looks like a concrete hedgehog that has spread out in a jungle. Is there still such a thing as wilderness here? “Wait until you reach Victoria Peak,” advises Helen Gorrod from the airline Cathay Pacific, which offers daily flights between Switzerland and the metropolis, which is considered a “Special Administrative Region of the People’s Republic of China”. This striking vantage point is the best place to get an overview of the vibrant city with its 7.5 million inhabitants and to get your bearings.
Green lung
From this perspective, it is surprising how green the compact coastal landscape of Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon peninsula directly opposite looks. Hydrophilic roof gardens have been created on many of the high-rise buildings below Victoria Peak. Here and there, the greenery has penetrated into the street canyons between the closely packed buildings. Hong Kong Park, with its waterfalls, ponds, greenhouses and birdhouses, is a real oasis and a successful blend of futuristic infrastructure and nature. The city administration has committed itself to preserving the green spaces and has even announced the construction of ten new city parks.
What would a Chinese city be without traditional green spaces? The garden in Nan Lian was laid out in the style of the Tang Dynasty (618 to 907), the first golden age of classical Chinese horticulture. The gardens from this era were more refined than ever before and formed oases of calm in an already turbulent world. Water still plays an important role in green spaces today. It stands for life and prosperity. The trees and flowers provide lush, colourful accents, while the stones symbolize stability, wisdom and strength.
Fresh air
Less than an hour’s drive away, an intact, biodiverse environment invites Hong Kong citizens to enjoy numerous sporting activities. Forests, heath and volcanic landscapes, swamps, reservoirs and beaches with crystal-clear water make up almost 75% of Hong Kong’s territory, and the Sai Kung region, also known as the “Garden of Hong Kong”, is famous for its geological formations and its easy to challenging hiking trails. Ultra-trailers and hikers from all over the world compete on four long-distance hiking trails, the 4 Big Trails, which can be tackled in one go or in several stages:
- The MacLehose Trail crosses the New Territories from Sai Kung in the east to Tuen Mun in the west over a length of 100 kilometers.
- The 78-kilometer Hong Kong Trail leads through the five protected parks on Hong Kong Island.
- The Wilson Trail stretches a total length of 78 kilometers from Stanley in the south of Hong Kong Island to Nam Chung in the north of the New Territories.
- The Lantau Trail runs for 70 kilometers around the entire island of Lantau.
To the table!
After hiking, foodies flock to the small town of Sai Kung, which offers a wide range of fresh fish and seafood. Choosing one of the many restaurants is difficult – especially as opinions differ on the individual eateries. If the restaurant is frequented by locals, this can indicate good value for money. For example, Chuen Kee Seafood, located directly on the pier, is always busy. Meanwhile, the more upmarket Sing Kee Seafood boasts a Michelin star. And the Japanese teppanyaki also has its fans.
A window shopping tour through Sai Kung is a great way to digest your meal. The shopping is primarily aimed at tourists looking for spices, local handicrafts and other souvenirs. The jewelry stores attract a more affluent clientele. These luxury stores seem to get by without any security staff at all. Hong Kong also has one of the lowest crime rates in the world: in 2023, there were 1,648 crimes per 100,000 inhabitants – compared to 6,522 in Switzerland! Nevertheless, the stores are equipped with sophisticated security systems such as surveillance cameras, alarm systems and armored doors. However, discretion is the top priority.
REFLECTED IN THE LAKE OF THE CITY GARDEN.
