In the heart of the Swiss Alps, the Kempinski Palace Engelberg is the ideal base camp for discovering winter and summer activities in the canton of Obwalden, which helped found the Swiss Confederation in 1291.
Text: Eileen Hofer
What better way to start the day than with a dip in the pool! The bathrobe is thrown over a deckchair. We’re on the top floor of the Kempinski Palace Engelberg. This unique 880 m2 spa boasts a salt crystal fireplace, Finnish sauna, bio sauna, steam bath and fitness room. Behind the bay window, the sun is already shining on the neighbouring mountain peaks. As if in a mirror effect, they are reflected in the infinity pool. A bucolic, postcard panorama that has already attracted a plethora of Bollywood shoots in search of that Swissness.
New look
After five years of work and a complete facelift, the establishment now boasts 129 rooms and suites. The five-star superior hotel opened its doors in June 2021. Born in the Belle-Époque era, the historic six-storey Grandhotel Winterhaus is now a listed building that has been brought up to date with modern comforts. The wood-panelled, caulked lounges have retained their coffered ceilings, mosaics and parquet flooring. Sitting by the fireplace, you can now sip a cocktail in a resolutely contemporary and cosy design.
Ideally located just a stone’s throw from Engelberg station, the hotel is easily accessible for non-motorized guests. Summer and winter alike, the hotel is an ideal base for exploring the canton of Obwalden, with the lower terminus of the Titlis cable cars just a five-minute walk away.
The gateway to paradise
The Benedictine monastery is also adjacent to the Kempinski Palace Engelberg, and has been part of the village since its foundation in 1120, housing Switzerland’s largest church organ. Even today, 30 monks live and work here. This peaceful place has shaped the life of the community. Stroll through the courtyard and soak up the serene silence.
The village of Engelberg has grown up at the foot of Mount Titlis, which at 3,238 metres, is the gateway to paradise. In winter, the region is transformed into a mecca for freeriders, who descend the “Big Five”, five off-piste itineraries with 10,000 meters of vertical drop. As the winter season can sometimes stretch over seven months, skiers parade down the “Erika” run, a tribute to the Obwaldian skiing star Erika Hess. Dominique Gisin has since taken over. The Olympic champion, now a lecturer and airplane pilot, travels the world. An ambassador for the Red Cross, she can sometimes be found in one of the Kempinski Palace Engelberg’s restaurants, whether at the Wintergarden or the Cattani, which promotes top-of-the-range cuisine based on the Swiss “farm to table” concept. Behind the stoves, Michèle Müller has taken over as executive chef in charge of the kitchen brigade. The Berlin-born Michèle Müller is well versed in the region’s culinary traditions, and works closely with local suppliers to source top-quality products such as “Holzen” Angus ham and monastery cheese. This artisanal cuisine combines history and modernity, just like the two parts of the hotel.
Summer activities
This must-see winter destination is also rich in summer offerings. Golf aficionados will love pinching a ball on Engelberg’s 18-hole course at an altitude of 1,000 meters. Here, anything is possible: mountain biking, paragliding.
With your sneakers on, you can take the cable car up to the Fürenalp restaurant. Here you can enjoy Älplermagronen. This traditional Alpine dish features macaroni and potatoes in a creamy sauce, topped with fried onions and cheese. At an altitude of 1,850 metres, the wooden hut is the ideal starting point for a hike. Other not-to-be-missed walks include the Four Lakes hike, which takes around 6 hours but can be shortened by two hours if you use the cable cars. You’ll walk along the Trüb, Engstlen, Tannen and Melch lakes, enjoying views of the distant Bernese Alps at every turn.