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Portland: Natural, Democratic, and Unconventional

by Bernard Pichon

Oregon

One of the most environmentally friendly and tolerant cities in the U.S. is a thorn in Donald Trump’s side.

The dominant color catches your eye as soon as you land: Welcome to the greenest city in the United States! The airport, which is experiencing a veritable boom thanks to the arrival of new airlines—such as KLM, which now offers a direct flight to Amsterdam—was recently renovated. Beneath a 37,000-square-meter wooden roof, 49 skylights ensure that hundreds of trees and plants thrive. You don’t need a car in Portland: it’s one of the few American cities with an exceptionally well-functioning public transit system.

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This city blends urban vibrancy with rural charm: numerous parks, a world-class dining scene, and shops that carry exclusively Oregon-made products. As early as the 1960s, Portland was a cradle of counterculture. Under the leadership of a visionary governor, it became a model for environmental policy and healthy eating—at least for those who can afford it.

Those traveling on a tighter budget will find what they’re looking for among the more than 600 food trucks: everything from Asian and Mexican specialties to grilled dishes is available. The trucks are often grouped into so-called “pods,” accompanied by shared music and atmospheric lighting. It’s a great place to enjoy a beer—after all, according to the Oregon Brewers Guild, there are 263 microbreweries in the state, with over 65 in Portland alone.

A Stroll Through the City

To burn some calories, take a stroll through the compact downtown area—a stark contrast to cities like Los Angeles. A visit to the art museum and “Powell’s,” the world’s largest bookstore for new and used books, is a must. Right next door, not far from Chinatown, numerous boutiques selling fashion and accessories invite you to browse. Compared to the bustling Chinatowns of New York or San Francisco, Portland’s Chinatown seems almost deserted—a refuge for the homeless. Visiting at night is not recommended; as prostitution and opium dens once flourished here. A stark contrast to this is the peaceful Lan Su Chinese Garden, a green oasis in the heart of the neighborhood. Paths lead to a teahouse. This typically Asian tranquility can also be found in the meticulously maintained Japanese Garden.

Field Trips

Portland is perfect for city walks. Fresh air isn’t limited to the surrounding mountains and forests: expansive natural areas like Lower McCleay Park, with its network of trails stretching over 130 kilometers, invite you to explore. One of the trails leads to Pittock Mansion, a 23-room mansion built in 1914 that now serves as a museum featuring historic gardens and furnishings. About 1,600 meters from the starting point, you’ll reach the Stone House, the ruins of a “witch’s house” that adds a touch of mystery. In the summer, blueberries and ferns line the path, which repeatedly offers sweeping views of Portland’s skyline.

Impressive

Hopscotch (a jumping game) was originally a programming language for beginners—in Portland, the name now stands for an attraction you shouldn’t miss: half a dozen immersive high-tech installations in a huge gallery where young and old alike can experience breathtaking visual effects. Here, you can spray graffiti to your heart’s content without using a single drop of paint—using a virtual spray can that creates temporary works of art via sensors. “Keep Portland weird!”—that’s the city’s unofficial slogan. Countless tattoo studios, where customers’ skin becomes a gallery, dot the streetscape. Just as numerous are strip clubs and drag queen bars—shady spots reminiscent of the late 19th century, when Portland thrived on its port and gold miners.

Accommodations

While many players in the tourism industry are often suspected of greenwashing in their communications, the brand-new Hotel Cascada has earned remarkable recognition from environmentalists. The opening of this luxury hotel marks a long-awaited turning point in the rapid gentrification of a neighborhood that once served as a home to numerous Black and Latin American families. Cascada emphasizes that it consistently meets the requirements of sustainable business practices in all areas—from construction to wellness and dining offerings. The concept was developed by SolTerra, a local renewable energy company.

Spooky

Travelers in search of something out of the ordinary should set out on a journey: Just 45 minutes from downtown Portland lies a sprawling hotel complex whose character bears no resemblance to the uniform world of large hotel chains. The McMenamins Grand Lodge—a place that might even have inspired Stanley Kubrick as a setting for “The Shining”—welcomes its guests through a classic colonnaded entrance. Beyond it lie endless corridors with nostalgic furnishings and dim lighting, evoking a journey through time and conjuring up a mysterious past. Originally opened in 1922 as a retreat for members of the Masonic Order, the property is now a vibrant place filled with art, live music, and special events. The Grand Lodge offers 90 rooms, a restaurant, a day spa, several bars and lounges, a heated outdoor pool—and a charming movie theater where you can dine during the screening. An experience like stepping back in time—in a building whose corridors seem to whisper their own secrets.

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