Tropical rainforest, turquoise lagoons, a protected bay, superb sailing grounds, workshops making traditional Salako hats and distinctive rum distilleries: with every crossing, Guadeloupe reveals a different side of itself. A journey by water through a French archipelago in the Caribbean.
Words) Marine Ulrich
The Caribbean without leaving France: that is the promise of the Islands of Guadeloupe. Although thousands of kilometres from mainland Europe, this French overseas territory is easy to reach from Europe, with direct flights from Paris. All you need is an identity card. You arrive in the tropics, transported to a different world without the complications of a long-haul trip. But make sure you have the right map. This destination is not a single island but an archipelago: six inhabited islands and a myriad of smaller islets, linked by short crossings by ferry, plane or sailboat. And the best way to understand this island world is probably from the sea. Here, you do not simply visit a destination; you sail between several islands.
The Islands of Guadeloupe are all about contrasts. The archipelago is made up of two main islands, separated by a narrow stretch of sea yet each with a very different character. To the west lies Basse-Terre, mountainous and covered in tropical rainforest. It is home to the national park, the first established in a French overseas territory and designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.
Dense vegetation, hiking trails and pools where you can swim at the foot of waterfalls: visitors come here to walk and cool off in freshwater. At 1,467 metres, La Soufrière, the highest peak in the Lesser Antilles, dominates the horizon. This still-active volcano is nicknamed the “Old Lady”. Access to the summit is regulated, but the climb remains one of the island’s signature experiences. Basse-Terre also boasts two attractions recently recognised by TripAdvisor: the Jardin Botanique de Valombreuse, ranked among the top 1% of attractions worldwide, and the Guadeloupe Zoo, in the top 10%. The island is also home to a protected marine paradise, the Cousteau Reserve, which can be explored by glass-bottom boat or through regulated diving excursions.
To the east, Grande-Terre plays a very different tune. Fringed by long beaches and turquoise lagoons swept by the trade winds, it is a wonderful playground for swimming, watersports and sailing. Together, Basse-Terre and Grande-Terre already hint at the extraordinary diversity of the region. The rest of the archipelago is best explored by sea. Marie-Galante, the island of a hundred windmills, is round, rural and shaped by the rhythm of sugar cane. The Îles des Saintes boast a succession of sheltered bays, one of which, on Terre-de-Haut, belongs to the club of the Most Beautiful Bays in the World. La Désirade, the wildest and most secluded of the islands, offers tranquillity and a sense of mystery. Its desert garden, awarded the “Jardin remarquable” label, and the oldest geological nature reserve in the Caribbean make it especially appealing to travellers seeking peace and quiet. Distances between the islands are short, and connections run daily. In a week, you can get to know two islands; in two weeks, you can begin to appreciate the archipelago as a whole.
There is no doubt that the Islands of Guadeloupe are best discovered from the sea. Sailors who hop from island to island, dropping anchor in well-known spots, already know this. The bay of Les Saintes, off Terre-de-Haut, is breathtaking. Drop anchor opposite the village and swim to Pain de Sucre beach, or venture farther towards Terre-de-Bas to swim alongside rays and turtles. Further away from the main routes, the Petite-Terre nature reserve offers an equally magnificent lagoon, but one that is carefully protected. Iguanas, turtles, rays and tropical fish thrive here. As a protected site, it can only be visited on guided excursions, and only environmentally friendly moorings are permitted to preserve the seabed.
Every four years since 1978, the waters of Guadeloupe have become an international stage. The Route du Rhum – Destination Guadeloupe, one of the most legendary solo transatlantic sailing races, finishes in Pointe-à-Pitre. The next edition will start from Saint-Malo on 1 November 2026. Its name is no coincidence: it recalls the sailing ships that once carried rum from the Caribbean islands back to mainland France.
The next port of call is Marie-Galante, where three of the destination’s fourteen distilleries and rum houses continue an age-old tradition. Here, visitors can sample agricultural rum, made directly from sugar-cane juice, alongside authentic, diverse and generous Creole cuisine: accras, savoury fritters; fish in a Creole broth; bébélé, a soup made with traditional vegetables; or cassava flatbread known as kassav. The local cuisine, too, tells the story of the island’s rich heritage.
Guadeloupe has chosen to celebrate and protect its natural environment.
On Basse-Terre, the “Esprit Parc national” label recognises accommodation providers committed to biodiversity, with locally sourced food, carefully managed energy use and buildings designed to blend into the surrounding vegetation. On Grande-Terre, the École de la Mer, based at the Gosier Aquarium, raises awareness among children and adults alike of the fragility of marine ecosystems. Luxury here means the silence of early morning, the taste of freshly cut fruit and the wonder of looking out over nature that remains largely untouched. This sense of intimacy is also what draws couples who choose the archipelago to say “I do”, as well as those simply looking to take a breath, recharge and escape the demands of everyday life. Between islands, schedules give way to the rhythm of the sun and the tides. It soon becomes clear why some visitors leave only reluctantly.
One final side of Guadeloupe reveals itself on land. Creole culture, shaped by Indigenous, African, Indian and European influences, permeates every aspect of life across the archipelago. It is expressed through food, of course, but also through traditional dances and music, including gwoka, recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, and zouk. In Pointe-à-Pitre, the Mémorial ACTe, dedicated to the memory of slavery and the slave trade, stands as one of the Caribbean’s major memorial sites. From January until Ash Wednesday, the archipelago lives to the rhythm of Carnival. For several weeks, colourful costumes adorned with feathers, sequins and plant-based materials fill the streets, while groups playing traditional po instruments parade to the beat of drums, ti-bois percussion and Creole songs. The festivities reach their climax with the burning of Vaval, the king of Carnival.
Six islands, just as many reasons to come aboard. All that remains is to choose where to begin …
Find out more at Lesilesdeguadeloupe.com.
Photos) Comité du tourisme des iles de Guadeloupe/Aurélien Brusini